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How to build a gaming PC and all the parts you need

We run through the list of parts and tools needed to build your gaming PC. We provide a step by step guide on how to build a PC for gaming

Updated: Mar 7, 2024 3:37 pm
How to build a gaming PC and all the parts you need

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Table of Contents

We have created one of the best learning resources we possibly can when it comes to figuring out how to build a gaming PC. PC gaming is considered enthusiast-level, with gamers on this platform generally spending more money and time on the hobby they love. No longer do you have to struggle to wonder if you’re doing everything right. This comprehensive beginner guide to PC building contains everything you will ever need.

Here at WePC, we have a team of experienced PC builders who have helped to contribute to this beginner’s step-by-step guide. We want to ensure that you avoid the common mistakes in building a gaming PC. We always champion that building your gaming PC brings a multitude of benefits such as saving money, getting more gaming PC ‘horsepower’ for your money, learning a new skill, and of course the satisfaction that comes from completing a custom gaming PC build.

How to build a gaming PC is no different from building any PC, only there may be a few extra parts in the gaming variety. If you are new to the PC building world, you needn’t worry, we are going to run through everything from component definitions and what they do in a PC, all the way to what parts you need for your build, and what tools are required. We have step-by-step images and videos to help you visualize each of the steps in the custom gaming PC build process.

By the end of this article, you will have everything you need to complete your PC build, no matter if you are creating the best gaming PC or budget gaming PC. We have lots of recommended custom gaming PC builds that cover all budgets and gaming scenarios. Be sure to check them out.

Alternatively, you may have considered buying yourself the best-prebuilt gaming PC from a custom PC builder, however, based on our experience you should always look to build your gaming PC first, rather than settling with prebuilt.

Here’s a quick summary of how we have structured this beginners step by step guide to building your gaming PC:

  1. Finding the best components for your PC build, with a budget and your requirements (the games you play) in mind
  2. Understanding how each PC component works and why they are important
  3. Grabbing the right tools for the job and preparation for the PC build
  4. Beginners step-by-step guide to building your gaming PC.

Here’s a how-to-build a gaming PC video to assist you during the process.

To assist further with our information, pictures, and steps, we also have this how to build a gaming PC video.

How to build a gaming PC – a step-by-step assembly guide

Before you begin, make sure you’ve organized your workspace as described earlier. This will make it easier to find everything you need exactly when you need it. Once you’ve done that, wash and dry your hands as it is time to install all your components and create your new PC build. You are going to need to set aside approximately 3-6 hours to complete the PC build if you’re a beginner. An experienced builder may take less time, between 1-3 hours.

Before you start! If you need to read what to do before building your PC, we have a section on that below the step-by-step guide. We recommend checking this out first if you’re a new or beginner PC builder. Or if you just want to know what parts go into a PC, you can skip to that part too.

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Step 1.1: Prepare The Case

Parts and tools required: Case, Case manual, Screwdriver

Once the case is out of the box, remove the side panels to reveal the internal frame of the case, and be sure to remove all packaging. Inside, you will notice a small box or bag of screws, these are going to be needed for the installation process later, so set them aside.

Untie your cables out the back of the case so they are loose and ready to go once the motherboard is installed. Finally, screw in the correct amount of standoff screws you need, depending on the form factor of your motherboard.

Now set the PC case to one side.

Tip

Sometimes the back panel thumbscrews can be a little tight, so just use a screwdriver and save the skin on your thumb.

Step 1.2: Install Fans

Parts and tools required: Case, Case manual, Screwdriver

If you are replacing case fans with some alternative options, first remove the fans from your case. To get to the fans at the front of your case you may need to take the front panel off. Removing the front panel can be quite tricky and it can often require a fair amount of force. If you’re working on a more premium case, then your front panel may be glass and it should unscrew.

On the fan you are installing you will notice a small arrow to show what direction the flow of air will travel. Line up the arrow depending on if you are going for a push/ pull configuration and secure it in place with the screws that will come with the fan.

When it comes to wiring the fans, the rear fan will have a fan header near it on the motherboard. Motherboards generally have 3-5 fan headers dotted around, so consult your manual if you are having trouble finding these.

Tip

– Orient the fan so you can hide the cable in a more efficient wa
– Run the fan cables out the back when you can to help tidy up the inside of your build
– A common setup would be two-fans at the front and one-fan at the back.

Step 2: Install The Processor (CPU)

Parts and tools required: CPU, Motherboard

Remove the motherboard from its packaging and place it in your workspace. Find the CPU socket (usually near the top-middle of the board) and release the lever until it is upright. When the lever on both AMD and Intel boards is upright, it is ready to take the CPU. 

You will notice on your AMD or Intel CPU and motherboard a little arrow in the corner. This arrow indicates the position of your CPU and you should line up these arrows. 

Place the CPU into the socket and give it a gentle nudge if it doesn’t fall into place. Make sure the CPU is flush before lowering the lever. With Intel-compatible motherboards, there will be a protective bit of plastic over the socket and metal clasp, clip this back under the bolt. The lever will feel like it has a lot of tension in it, don’t worry this is normal and the plastic shield will pop off during installation.

AMD is now on the AM5 socket standard which adopted the LGA pin configuration, meaning the pins are in the socket rather than the bottom of the CPU. This means that both AMD and Intel CPUs now install the same.

Tip

When handling the CPU, be sure to hold it from the sides and avoid touching the top or bottom and remember, the CPU only fits into the socket one way.

Step 3: Install The Memory (RAM)

Parts and tools required: RAM, Motherboard, Motherboard user manual

If you are going to fill up the available RAM slots on your motherboard, line up the memory stick (only goes in one way) and push until you hear the click. You may need to snap back the plastic bits at the end of each slot before doing this. If you aren’t going to use up all those RAM slots (very common) then be sure to check your motherboard’s user manual which will let you know which slots your Memory goes into. It’s also often printed on the PCB of the motherboard.

Tip

At the end of the build, if you experience no display, it can often be down to the RAM not being seated properly. Turn your system off and double-check that the RAM has clicked into place

Step 4: Install the CPU Cooler

Parts and tools required: Motherboard with CPU installed, Cooler, CPU user manual

Whether you’ve grabbed an AIO liquid cooler or an air cooler, they all can feature different brackets and installation processes. Get the cooler manual out to make this next step much easier.

Some coolers require a mounting bracket which normally screws on the back of the motherboard. Some motherboards come with the backplate pre-installed but for the most part, you are going to have to attach this. 

Once the bracket is attached or replaced and the other small parts to attach the cooler are ready to go, check to see if the base of the cooler has thermal paste pre-applied (thin grey layer of paste). Thermal paste is very important so if you cannot see this on the base of your cooler, you are going to have to apply some of your own. To apply thermal paste, you can check out our easy-to-follow, step-by-step guide.

Assuming you have thermal paste applied, go ahead and place your cooler onto the top of the CPU, lining up the screw holes. AMD and Intel stock coolers are some of the simplest to install but if you are using an aftermarket cooler, be sure to tighten the screws in a criss-cross pattern.

Tip

– To remove the thermal paste, use a lint-free cloth and a small amount of rubbing alcohol (90% isopropyl)
– If installing an AIO liquid cooler, just install the bracket and wait till your motherboard is in the case before installing the radiator.

Step 5: Install The Motherboard (MOBO)

Parts and tools required: Motherboard, Case, I/O shield (if not attached to MOBO), Screwdriver

Before you screw your motherboard into the case, clip your I/O shield into the cutout at the back of the case. Some more premium motherboards come with the I/O shield pre-installed onto the motherboard. So sometimes this step isn’t necessary. Be careful with the thin metal I/O shields, they can be very sharp.

Now the I/O shield is in place,  it is time to screw in the motherboard. Lay the case on its side and place the motherboard on top of the standoffs, so the I/O connections poke through the I/O shield. Once aligned, screw the board into place using the screws listed in your case manual.

Be mindful of overtightening the screws that secure your motherboard to the PC case. Doing so can cause damage to the PC case and even the motherboard, if you crack and break a tracer inside the PCB it can be game over. Most warranties do not cover this type of damage. However, home contents insurance may do, if you have that coverage.

Don’t worry about connecting your front panel and PSU cables just yet, we will do that a little later on.

Tip

DO NOT screw the motherboard in without standoff screws at each hole. If you lose your motherboard screws, power supply screws can also be used to secure the motherboard to the standoffs

Step 6.1: Install Storage Solid State Drive (SSD) / Hard Drive Disk (HDD)

Parts and tools required: Motherboard, Case, I/O shield (if not attached to MOBO), Screwdriver

If you have bought an M.2 type storage device only, skip this step.

Check your case and look for the best spot to mount your SSD/ HDD. Some cases have many different mounting options available, often inside just behind the front panel, or at the back panel. It is not important where you choose to mount your drives but have cable management in mind when you pick a spot as you want to make your PC build look as clean as possible.

Some cases come with “tool-free” installation, which means your drive should just clip into the drive tray. Other cases will usually require you to screw the storage device into place.

Remove the tray and line up your storage device. You will want to orient the device with the SATA connectors facing the back panel as this is where you want your cables to run. Once aligned, screw it into place and slide the tray back into the drive bay. In some cases, the drives use the same screws as the motherboard but always consult the case manual. 

Once in place, you can connect the SATA cable that comes in your motherboard box to your storage device, and run it through the back and into the motherboard. To connect this to the correct SATA port, consult the motherboard user manual but make sure the boot device is plugged into SATA1.

Tip

A 2.5” SSD drive can usually be mounted to a 3.5” HDD tray but not vice-versa.

Step 6.2: Install M.2 Solid State Drive (SSD)

Parts and tools required: Motherboard, M.2 SSD, Screwdriver, M.2 screw from motherboard box

Locate the small, horizontal slot for the M.2 on your motherboard. Once found, remove the screw, if already in the board, and slide the M.2 into place. The storage device will flip up slightly at a 35-degree angle, as it needs you to screw it down. Push the SSD down, and screw the small screw to lock the device.

step 6.2 Install M.2 SSD 1

Step 7: Install The Graphics Card (GPU)

Parts and tools required: Installed motherboard, Screwdriver

Locate the PCIe x16 slot on your motherboard (usually the one at the top, but consult your motherboard manual). Which slot you use depends on what other components are inside but generally speaking, the top is the one to go for, leaving space near the bottom.

Before installing the GPU, ensure you remove all plastic from the graphics card. Next, remove the back metal covers for the expansion slots, so you can plug in your DisplayPort or HDMI cable. These metal covers will be screwed into mid-high-end cases, with some budget cases requiring you to snap these out.

Now there is space for the GPU,  push down on the retention clip on your motherboard’s PCIe slot and slide the GPU in till you hear a click. Do so in a straight-down motion, don’t give the flimsy PCIe slot on the GPU a chance to bend and snap. It’s reasonably robust but easy to snap if you’re not paying attention.

Once clicked into place screw it in securely. As always, be careful not to over-tighten or thread the screws on the GPU.

Tip

If your PC case didn’t come with a screw to fix the GPU in place, you can use a spare PSU screw

Step 8: Install The Power Supply (PSU)

Parts and tools required: Case, PSU, Screwdriver

If you have a semi- or fully modular PSU, work out what cables you are going to need in your build and plugin accordingly. The PSU will usually have labels on everything to make this step a bit easier. 

Once the cables are plugged in, feed them through so your power supply sits flush with the case. Make sure you orient the PSU fan down if there is ventilation at the bottom or upwards if there is no ventilation.

The PSU and your case will come with the required screws (4X), simply screw these into place in the back. The screws do not go in all 4 corners in the same place, they are symmetrical, which is normal. Just look for where the screw holes line up with the case.

Step 9: It’s Time To Cable Up The Front Panel

Parts and tools required: Case cables, Installed motherboard, Motherboard user manual

First, we are going to cable up the front panel of your case to the motherboard. This is the trickiest part of the build but that is just down to it being quite fiddly. Make sure you have run your front panel cables out the back before starting. Some motherboard manufacturers include an adapter for the front panel connectors that can make life a lot easer in this scenario.

Consult your motherboard manual to locate where your front I/O cables will be going. Once located, feed the cables through the nearest cutout hole. Follow the diagram and connect the cables as it mentions.

Once your front panel cables are all connected (PWR L.E.D, HDD L.E.D, PWR Switch, Reset Switch, USB, USB 3.0, HD Audio) it is time to connect your power supply cables.

Tip

– If you check the underside of the PWR L.E.D, HDD L.E.D, PWR Switch, Reset Switch cables, you will see a small arrow etched into the plastic. This arrow indicates which pin is + (positive)
– You will find it easier to plug in the bottom layer of front panel cables first as it can be fiddly for large hands

Step 10: Plug in all the relevant PSU cables

Parts and tools required: PSU cables, Installed motherboard, Motherboard user manual

After previously installing your PSU, your cables should all be hanging out the back. Now it is time to feed these different cables back through into the front of the case in the adjacent cutout holes. 

If your case has a cutout near your back I/O shield at the top, this is where your CPU power connector will go. Feed the cable through this hole and simply plug this into the port on your motherboard, pulling the excess out the back once you hear the click.

Now the CPU has power, you are going to feed the large 24-pin power cable through the hole nearest its port. Wait for the click and again, pull the excess cable length through the back.

Your graphics card needs power too, grab your PCIe power cable and slide this through the nearest cutout. Plug this into your GPU and again, pull the excess out of the back panel.

Lastly, your storage devices (unless you have an M.2) will need power too. Plug the SATA power into the back of your storage device and pull the excess out the back.